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understitch,
United Kingdom
Приєднався 24 чер 2022
fashion critique 🤝 business analysis
~ new videos every fortnight ~
patreon: patreon.com/understitch
~ new videos every fortnight ~
patreon: patreon.com/understitch
The Life and Death of Elsa Schiaparelli
Elsa was the genius of her generation. Out selling any other designer by far and inventing countless designs over her years. Newspaper print, decorative zippers, the women's suit, the backwards suit, the wrap dress and culottes are just some of the many inventions made first by Schiaparelli. But what of the woman behind the genius?
00:00 Intro
01:03 Chapter 1: CHILDHOOD
24:05 Chapter 2: LONDON, PARIS & AMERICA. LOVE, MARRIAGE & DIVORCE
48:28 Chapter 3: A RETURN TO PARIS
59:50 Chapter 4: THE BEGINNINGS OF SCHIAPARELLI
1:18:29 Chapter 5: SUCCESS UPON SUCCESS UPON SUCCESS
1:40:30 Chapter 6: WORLD WAR TWO
1:56:04 Chapter 7: SUSPICION
2:10:46 Chapter 8: EXILE
2:16:52 Chapter 9: THE POST-WAR, THE DEMISE AND THE DEATH
Beauty Channel: www.youtube.com/@underskinYT
Patreon: patreon.com/understitch
Unless otherwise obvious, photos in this video are from Getty Images or Alamy under their editorial terms used for non-commercial websites, blogs and social media posts illustrating matters of public interest.
Affiliate links for books used:
Adlington (2021) The Dressmakers of Auschwitz: amzn.to/457NZ1S
Baudot (1997) Fashion Memoir: Elsa Schiaparelli (I don't think it's on Amazon)
BillyBoy* (2016) Frocking Life: Searching for Elsa Schiaparelli: amzn.to/453GDw6
Blum (2003) Shocking: The Art and Fashion of Elsa Schiaparelli: amzn.to/3yEjfZT
Carron de la Carrière (2022) Shocking: Life Between the Lines: amzn.to/3UWCq8U
Golbin (2016) Couture Confessions: Fashion Legends in Their Own Words: amzn.to/4aL5F4v
Hoskins (2016) Anti-Capitalist Book of Fashion: amzn.to/4e62IOW
Kennett (1984) Secrets of the Couturiers: amzn.to/3R7HF4A
Milbank (1985) Couture: The Great Fashion Designers: amzn.to/3RvU6HJ
Schiaparelli (1954) Shocking Life: amzn.to/4dWCMoR
Secrest (2014) Elsa Schiaparelli: A Biography: amzn.to/3V1Sbvj
Volk (2013) The Art of Being a Woman: My Mother, Schiaparelli and Me: amzn.to/3KnLZsr
White (1986) Elsa Schiaparelli: Empress of Paris Fashion: amzn.to/4aKaKK8
Wilcox & Mendes (2009) Twentieth-Century Fashion in Detail: amzn.to/3yPFWKG
00:00 Intro
01:03 Chapter 1: CHILDHOOD
24:05 Chapter 2: LONDON, PARIS & AMERICA. LOVE, MARRIAGE & DIVORCE
48:28 Chapter 3: A RETURN TO PARIS
59:50 Chapter 4: THE BEGINNINGS OF SCHIAPARELLI
1:18:29 Chapter 5: SUCCESS UPON SUCCESS UPON SUCCESS
1:40:30 Chapter 6: WORLD WAR TWO
1:56:04 Chapter 7: SUSPICION
2:10:46 Chapter 8: EXILE
2:16:52 Chapter 9: THE POST-WAR, THE DEMISE AND THE DEATH
Beauty Channel: www.youtube.com/@underskinYT
Patreon: patreon.com/understitch
Unless otherwise obvious, photos in this video are from Getty Images or Alamy under their editorial terms used for non-commercial websites, blogs and social media posts illustrating matters of public interest.
Affiliate links for books used:
Adlington (2021) The Dressmakers of Auschwitz: amzn.to/457NZ1S
Baudot (1997) Fashion Memoir: Elsa Schiaparelli (I don't think it's on Amazon)
BillyBoy* (2016) Frocking Life: Searching for Elsa Schiaparelli: amzn.to/453GDw6
Blum (2003) Shocking: The Art and Fashion of Elsa Schiaparelli: amzn.to/3yEjfZT
Carron de la Carrière (2022) Shocking: Life Between the Lines: amzn.to/3UWCq8U
Golbin (2016) Couture Confessions: Fashion Legends in Their Own Words: amzn.to/4aL5F4v
Hoskins (2016) Anti-Capitalist Book of Fashion: amzn.to/4e62IOW
Kennett (1984) Secrets of the Couturiers: amzn.to/3R7HF4A
Milbank (1985) Couture: The Great Fashion Designers: amzn.to/3RvU6HJ
Schiaparelli (1954) Shocking Life: amzn.to/4dWCMoR
Secrest (2014) Elsa Schiaparelli: A Biography: amzn.to/3V1Sbvj
Volk (2013) The Art of Being a Woman: My Mother, Schiaparelli and Me: amzn.to/3KnLZsr
White (1986) Elsa Schiaparelli: Empress of Paris Fashion: amzn.to/4aKaKK8
Wilcox & Mendes (2009) Twentieth-Century Fashion in Detail: amzn.to/3yPFWKG
Переглядів: 37 509
Відео
The Rise and Fall of J.Crew
Переглядів 89 тис.21 день тому
J.Crew, from it's beginnings as a mail-order catalogue, through to it's brick and mortar expansion had always been a pillar of the American retail system. However, after a long series of failed revamp attempts after their preppy style fell out of style, J.Crew has simply struggled to keep up. Their logistics was too clunky to be sufficiently nimble and eventually they lost their audience. Today...
The Rise and Fall-ish of Paco Rabanne
Переглядів 17 тис.Місяць тому
Secure your privacy with Surfshark! Enter coupon code UNDERSTITCH for an extra 4 months free at surfshark.deals/understitch Paco Rabanne, known now only as Rabanne, was once one of the biggest brands of the 1960s, but after failing to innovate designs into the 1980s its been a slow decline into fashion obscurity, fully closing in the 2000s. However, while that happened, the fragrance side of th...
The Life and Death of Karl Lagerfeld
Переглядів 23 тис.Місяць тому
Download Love & Pies here: pixly.go2cloud.org/SH4LL Thanks to Love & Pies for sponsoring! Karl Lagerfeld is arguably the worlds most influential modern designer, reviving not one but four fashion houses to relevance, even when it seemed to most that that was impossible (especially for Fendi and Chanel). This video that looks through the life of Karl Lagerfeld is meant to be a reminder of everyt...
The Rise and Fall of MatchesFashion
Переглядів 18 тис.Місяць тому
MatchesFashion was once one of the biggest names in luxury online retailing. It had a very loyal customer base both on and offline for it's great mix of upcoming and established brands. However, following a $1 billion sale to APAX partners, all of that was lost in three years, causing them to go into administration in 2024. It a real blow to luxury commerce, but it's even more of a blow to the ...
The Entire History of The Met Gala
Переглядів 197 тис.2 місяці тому
The Met Gala, now held in the Anna Wintour Costume Institute, has a long and storied history, truly beginning as a fund raising event conceived by Eleanor Lambert, it changed the way that the two Lewisohn sisters' collection would be perceived forever. After many many years, many exhibitions and many galas, we saw it grow from simple an in-crowd party to a celebrity filled costume party, but al...
The Fall and Fall of Daya by Zendaya (& Law Roach)
Переглядів 49 тис.2 місяці тому
Zendaya is one of the biggest celebrities in the world today, so why did her fashion line Daya by Zendaya (previously called Sole of Daya) fail right from the get go? It had good celebrity endorsement, good production, good margins from said production. But really, honestly, I think the failure of this brand was set from the beginning due to timing. Frankly, because her celebrity status was in ...
The Rise and Fall of American Apparel
Переглядів 51 тис.2 місяці тому
American Apparel was once one of the biggest high street brands in the world. With indie sleaze ads that caught the consumers eye, Made in USA promise as well as their guarantee of workers rights, they differentiated themselves both in front and behind the scenes. However, the rise was short lived after in 2005 the sales began to dip and debt began to rise, causing the company to go public in o...
The Rise and Fall of Elizabeth and James
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Elizabeth and James today is often remembered as The Row's diffusion line. And though it worked in that manner to help Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen fund The Row in the beginning, it quickly grew from cash cow to star brand for them, standing alone as a successful brand. In fact, Elizabeth and James was significantly more financially successful than The Row for many years and yet quickly made its ...
The Life and Death of Alexander McQueen
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Lee Alexander McQueen was a creative genius, but he was also haunted by his many years of abuse and negligence from both family and workplace. His story is far from a happy one, and led him to really hit out at those around him in order to make himself feel better. Yet, those that tried to help were swatted away in favour of profits and keeping McQueen working as much as he possibly could. Howe...
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KidSuper is dope 🔥🔥🔥
8:11 I’ve just started the video, and did you say that Sciaps grandmother died when she was 20, while her daughter (sciaps mother was 10)? Does that mean that she gave birth to her when she was 10 years old?..
You should be on a million subscribers! Great channel! Very inspiring
Combining elegance and luxury niceshopx
It hit the nail on the head . The logo for Karl Lagerfeld is juvenile to said the least. it lead the style to no where. I believe its combination Ego and self-hatred. The is a famous Chinese story about the Monkey king. Monkey king have managed to defeat everyone that was powerful. But there was one person he could defeat. It was his Ego. Good video, however its too pain to watch.
Excellence . this is the best history video on any designer. thank you.
Thank you so much 🥰
I still shop regularly at Jcrew, although I was at my peak as a customer back in the Drexler/Lyons heyday. I had been introduced to the brand in college by girls who'd lay out their jcrew catalogues on their coffee tables like they were magazines. I bought pieces back then but since its devotees made it so cult-like, I limited my consumption to just that, a few items here and there. It was during the time right after college that I was racially profiled and followed around one of their stores by a sales associate and vowed never to return. Probably a decade later, during the Drexler/Lyons days I befriended a JCrew manager, a black man, who enticed me back into the brand. I still have pieces in my wardrobe from when I first started at Jcrew in the late 90s. I don't think their current stuff will last that long, but that seems to be the nature of fashion these days.
I liked the publicity but not the clothes.
A brand with really strong identity. I have their shirts and even subscribed to their newsletter, that’s how much I love their design ))
An Excellent story-telling of Schiaparelli. Worth the time investment to listen. Didn't realise that the model was related, yet there is a familiarity in features observed by the photos included. Very Well done.
Fantastic, brilliant. Thank you so much.
I have been buying JCrew for a very long time...I still get shirts and sweaters from them and unique blouses.... I am 76 so by now the pants are not fitting right. But I do want them to succeed again. Fingers crossed. Thank you for this very informative video on their journey.
What a great video! I really enjoyed this! I graduated high school in 2010 right in the Lyons era! And most of the clothes I still own today are from J.Crew. I still really appreciate the overall prep look and I still wear it. I don’t know what J Crew can do at this point to save themselves in the world Being destroyed by fast fashion, but I hope they can survive and create products that people genuinely want to be seen in. Thank you so much for this information.
Fascinating. Thank you.
Thank you 🥰
Not just Jcrew. Anthropologie to me is no longer what it used to be. Beyond quality, the issue is that the companies themselves started to have people that copied them, and because these are high-brow wannabe companies, they can't have anyone looking the same. Therefore, they started to change. For instance: JCrew not only had a problem with the quality. That was true, their quality went down. But if we are honest that was happening across all brands in the industry. Not just Jcrew. There were almost no companies outsourcing and downgrading quality. BUT, JCrew's design went YOUNGER and the issue is that the younger people, in the US do not like to follow their mother's companies and the mother's didn't like the clothes. Because the issue is that the older women wanted the more neutral and fake "high-class" aesthetic. Which is the image of "luxury" Americans have. Despite the fact that in Europe it is not all clearcut and they sometimes are the ones that like eccentric fabrics. Basically Jcrew was hit by the issue that a large volume of Americans that are wanna be quiet luxury buyers just didn't like Lyons' directions. In Anthro's situation, they used to make clothes and items that were kitsch. As they became bigger, and their style was copied they now started to try to be different and more "high-brow". In this moment their clothes looks like everything else, with the same crap quality, rather than the original detailed seamstress aesthetic and their furniture stuff is modern and looks slightly better than Amazon. It is what is selling because once again Americans want simple. No colors, no personality, etc, etc. Turns out that neither of these companies are their former selves. And I'm almost forty. Lately to find the aesthetic that I liked from them I have to go to British companies like Boden and House of Hackney and similar. Because the issue is that US companies, as technology has grown, have lost any originality and whimsicality and just go for simple. And I can say this, I am American lol.
When I saw the Schiaparelli exhibition in Paris 2022, I was truly mesmerized by Elsa's design. It was whimsical and fun, unlike what one would expected from couture. It really captured your imagination unlike any other brands. Now understanding her backstory, it made me respect her beyond words. The London, Paris, & America segment just sounded like a real life version of the film 'Poor Things'. Yet, Schiaparelli actually did truly became an independent woman who set out to save so many. The WW2 allegations just sounded very misogynistic and racist to her role as an immigrant. While she might not get a full comeback after the war, I'm so glad her name lives on today with great success. She really did live a full life on her own terms.
Ironically after closing some stores in New York they’re actively opening new ones. Their men’s stuff is still good although they constantly change the fit which is disappointing. I can’t remember the last time I paid full price for anything at J. Crew!
J. Crew used to be tough
How many innocent creatures were tortured for this individuals shallow vanity… Fur.
Would have loved the 5 hr version!!!!! Where can I see it?
wow this was amazing
“This video is INFORMED by” This video is the literal plagiarism of others work.
Of course this is all shaped by your opinion. Sadly it’s so sketchy
Amazing video. Thank you and well done! ❤
Tha k you so much
Can u please do Gwen Stefani
A few people have asked, I really should
>20 year old woman with a 10 year old child The way I listened to that three times…..Jesus.
She was married at 12
I’m curious if you have a Rick Owens video on the pipeline. The lore must be insane 😮
Im a little intimidated to make one tbh, I feel like there are so many people that know so much more than me
@@understitchYT understandably so, I’m sure it’s a behemoth!
Are those two little monsters still torturing innocent creatures for their fur…
Fall? Sorry, when has Tom Ford or his brand fell at all?
Brand hasnt made a profit since 2019
LOVED this video - you truly are the holy grail fashion channel
Im so glad 🥰 I hope I get to make even more than the four biographies I have now, I just love making them
@@understitchYT I just came from watching the new Karl Lagerfeld series on Disney plus so this video was perfect - I would recommend if you haven’t seen already! It’s an interesting portrayal of him
I have seen these designs and looks before, but I never knew the name because I’m not very into fashion. Very interesting story
I think for the less fashion interested its a harder name to find for sure. Im glad you enjoyed the video 🤍
I waited nearly a whole year just to say that now Jin is out of the military; they should really consider making him a global brand ambassador at some point. I can't think of anyone else right now that reps the brand so hard - repeatedly - with their own dollars. 😂 Idk all that much about 2nd gen Kpop, but it would be interesting to see a video about the development/growth of what we now refer to as "airport fashion". Although he didn't start it, the great popularity of airport fashion now (and the hordes of fans gathering at the entrance to see celebrities) is often credited to GD.
It really seems their focus now is on female celebs and a lot of influencer marketing honestly. Ive not had anything but a lot of my online friends have and I was surprised theyre spending so much on it. Its good in that it really gets the name out there quickly though, GM really deserves the recognition. P.S totally agree about GD, whT an icon! And he has properly learnt to speak english now (he didnt in big bang if memory serves) so I hope he can become better known in the west so he can get fashion sponsorships
Oh sorry I thought this was the gentle monster comment I was replying to 🤣🤣🤣 In that case Jin is perfect for Thom Browne 🤣🤣
@@understitchYT Ha, ha no problem! Thanks for the replies. Keep up the great work. 😊 I'm enjoying listening/watching your videos as I do crafting things lol.
I will gladly comment on this video to help boost the engagement purely for the fact you pronounced the Korean names/words well. 👏👏 I don't have a penchant for eyewear, so I usually ignore most things to do with sunglasses, but you got me by putting Jimin in the thumbnail lol. I am aware that the brand has previously gifted him a few pairs of custom made sunnies in the past, and honestly it's just more exciting over there now, because most of America feels so dreary in comparison. Even simple additions can have a significant impact (e.g. GM has their cafe brand Nudake). Feeling safe - especially at night - walking the shopping districts in places like Korea and Japan, has really cemented their vibrant nightlife culture as well.
Youve probably seen by now but I accidentally replied to this on your Thom Browne comment, but I really agree they deserve all the hype/romotion theyre getting now via celebs and influencers
What’s with the constant overuse of the work hyperbole? Give it a rest fgs
However, hyperbole, however, hyperbole
@@understitchYT you obviously like your new word. Enjoy! 🙌
Being a mistress myself, i will always support my sister mistress fellow Chanel.
He looks like the child catcher from Chitty Chitty Bang Bang
Everyone needs a summer job
Has anyone tried J Crew this Summer season?! Incredible style and quality….have purchased over a dozen pieces and loving them!
Nope, it hasn't been incredible style in years. It looks like every other "luxury" company now. So I haven't bought into it. But if you like them, that's your choice.
Hi J Crew
For the current Schiaparelli I wish they would use more color.
That was my only critique of the recent collection yeah
@@understitchYT good to know I’m not alone in this Schiaparelli was known for her generous use of color and they were always fun to look at.
Very interesting reporting. I would have been very happy to talk to you to help you in your research. I worked for Matches from 1988 soon after their opening till 1995. I started as manager of the menswear boutique then ventually was the menswear buyer to finally be promoted in the final 2 years to general manager (and being a big part of the Richmond branch opening). I have so many stories to tell about working at Matches, its growth, clientelle etc... Tom was a visionary and alwasy ahead of trends or very good at spotting one coming! As for what made Matches so succesful at the beginnng: its customer service! just second to none. For instance flying over from Italy part of the Byblos collection specially for a client who was going on Holiday to Barbados!
How interesting! Shame I didnt catch your name in research otherwise I wouldve reached out for sure. Im sure you can tell I tried to contact as many people as I could 😅
I watched this video over three sessions…. I enjoyed this IMMENSELY. Thank you so much for your hard work. I found the story of Schiaparelli to be very moving… ✨
Im so glad I did this in chapters then! Happy to hear you enjoyed it so much 🥰
Another amazing video! I definitely think that there's a gap in the market for a brand like this again. The 'cool party girl' lifestyle they sold was super desirable during the Tumblr days and honestly is what I knew the brand for back then, rather than the ethical labour aspect of it. This metropolitan millennial lifestyle coupled with high-quality timeless basics is definitely something consumers are lacking nowadays.
Oh 100% there is, theres really nothing on the high street with this kind of cult following now. I wonder if you could say brandi melville but Im not american to really know the extent of their popularity
I was OBCESSSSSED
You and me both